The basic formula for San Sebastian visitors is to arrive hungry - then spend your days exploring as many pinxtos (Basque tapas) bars as you can handle. Everything is bite-sized, wallet-friendly and delicious. I did all that when I was there last year - then someone told us about a new wave of more experimental offerings, including A Fuego Negro, so off we popped. The sun was beating down on the city when we visited, but inside, it could have been midnight in Manhattan. I quite liked that but it's probably not for everyone. The tasting menu was a great shout (and good value at 35 euros) - every course had a bit of a Blumenthal-style twist and we emerged blinded by the daylight but very full and happily tipsy. The menu changes all the time, but I'm pretty sure the amazing olives with vermouth gel are there all the time - don't miss 'em.